Monday, October 10, 2005

John Galliano Spring RTW 2006

John Galliano had the most unusual show. It was perhaps a little light on breakthrough fashion trends, as is usually true of most designers, but he staged quite an interesting parade. He used mainly couples, and I will be ignoring the men, as they were most often a foil for the women, who were of many ages, many sizes and many shapes. Most interesting to see Galliano's idea of what should be worn by some of these figures. The older ladies were the most interesting I think. They wore their garments with style and panache, and carried off a dignity of presence that was quite gratifying.

Overlays of sheer fabric, as on this suit, were shown quite a lot.

Same thing on a shaped skirt.

A very nice, classic look.

The cutaway coat on the right has such an interesting print, and it hangs so beautifully.

Machine embroidery on this pantsuit evokes the femininity factor that seems to be an overarching theme this year. The more I see pantsuits like this, the more they make me think that Olivier Theyskens at Rochas is leading the way with his long, lean trailing skirts and similar silhouetted pantsuits.

A very cute jacket with great bows.

Beautiful jacket with the same lines as the coat above. Almost the only print in this show is the one with script as the design.


Friday, October 07, 2005

Hussein Chalayan Spring 2006 RTW

Interesting jacket/vest combo.

A nice rolled collar effect on a very cute jacket. The skirt could be a little more flattering, though.

A more tailored version of the double effect.

An empirically interesting collar cutout and folded technique.

A better look at the fabrics and technique used.

This is a much more wearable design with the same folded technique as those above.

A very interesting embossed fabric with lovely sculptural shoulder straps.

One of several black/print combinations, all with different unique points.

One of a series with large corded tubes. The trapunto shoulder pieces are quite nice.


Ungaro Spring 2006 RTW

Someone else said the Vincent Darré seems to be stuck in the '80's, and I would have to agree. There are some cute ideas here, but in general, he's a little too true to the decade without enough reinterpretation.

A cute skirt shape with a softly pleated flounce.

A nice tabbed blouse placket, and an interesting bubble skirt with a hem band.

He seems to be going pretty hot for these horizontal tuck effects. Here the whole dress is covered. Other places it's just the sleeves, or down the centerfront of a blouse.

Ruffles are being shown all over this year, and Ungaro is no exception, although these are quite a different style than most, which are paired with severely buttoned-up blouses.

Complete ruffle-coverage this time.

Interesting fabric in a nice little apron dress.


Givenchy Spring 2006 RTW

Not a lot of really useful ideas here, I thought.

A graceful coat and dress shape.


Lagerfeld Gallery Spring 2006 RTW

Nothing too startling here.

Teardrop cutouts on the jacket and wide cuffs on the pants, with a signature white shirt.

More cutouts. The hem is cute.

All of his skirts seem to be on yokes.


Thursday, October 06, 2005

Rochas Spring 2006 RTW

Pantsuit in a slightly textured fabric with a violin case purse.

Very sweet dress, with fabulous fabric that you can see in the close up below.

Lovely banded effect on this 2-piece dress.

Another graceful skirt with bands. This is so Edwardian, and just lovely. This is very black in the original photo. It's been lightened to show the details.

This is darling from the front, and just look at the back shoulder detail.

A stellar example of why almost no one should ever wear horizontal stripes that are textured.

Another pantsuit with a cute little blouse.

What an elegant gown, and look at the Parisian Hemstitch detailing at the shoulder.

Jacket with intricate seaming, and a very cute hem detail on both the skirt and jacket. The textured fabric adds quite a lot, too.

So very pretty, and there's a lot going on here with fabric, edging and shape.


Dior Spring 2006 RTW

John Galliano seems to be working through ideas first shown in the Fall Couture show, and there are lots of "semi-complete" design ideas here. It will be very interesting to see the Spring Couture, and watch a little more evolution of design.

Layers of lace and sheers look very pretty.

Interesting panels on this trenchcoat.

Snakeskin trim on an empire-waist, double-breasted coat looks fresh.

Lace overlays were shown on any garment.

Interesting take on a bubble skirt. It has almost a Victorian effect, and reminds one of a Manet painting.

A draped skirt smocked below the yoke. Ombre effects seem to be prominent.

Peasant blouses are still being seen.

An oversized leather coat with a picot edge.


Wednesday, October 05, 2005

Balenciaga Spring 2006 RTW

Lots of wonderful things here, and quite intricate for RTW.

Bubble dresses were to the fore.

Jacquard pantsuit with a very buttoned-up blouse.

An interesting fabric combination. It almost makes the collar and placket seem to be accessories rather than an integral part of the chiffon blouse.

Very similar idea with a completely different look because of the prints.

Appliquéing a print stripe from the blouse onto the pant waistband is an unusual detail, and very interesting.

Close up of another of several pantsuits, this with a different collar treatment.

An intricately pieced and seamed knit top. It looks like a sheer knit with 2 or more layers in places.

Another innovative use of the shaped edge of the print at the shoulders, and a cute, cute skirt shape. Once again the placket and collar appear as ornaments.

The shoulder shape especially is a little droopy, but the use of the lace at the neckline is rather stunning.

Here's a close up of the lace neckline.

Another interesting layered knit. This photo has been lightened so the details show.

This has quite a lingerie feel to it, and what a delicate bolero.

The closures are just darling, and so feminine.

Rather reminiscent of The Infanta, and of course, Balenciaga was Spanish.

The epitome of the cocktail jacket. One of many.