Sunday, July 24, 2005

Christian Lacroix Couture Fall 2005

I just love Lacroix, and this year is no different. He comes up with things that are interesting, well executed, and just plain pretty. His color and pattern mixing never fail to amaze me. Another great collection!

Gorgeous colors of course, fabulous fabric, and a great coat shape.

What a confection! Rows of ruffles on tulle make a perfectly charming suit.

A darling, eminently wearable 2 piece dress with low waist. Really quite simple, but what accessories! I like the embellishment just at the hem of the skirt too.

A beautifully cut suit with passementerie on the jacket and beading and an embellished hem on the skirt. Almost over the top, but quite lovely.

Close up of the passementerie trim on the jacket.
Close up of tulle ruffle hem treatment and webbed beading on skirt.

Nobody trims like Lacroix. What a wealth of ideas, and yet it all works together. Great collar shape, too.

Detail of the trims on the pink suit above.

How chic is this? The design is picked out in crystals, but it's the shape that is perfection. Great sleeve vents, too.

Lovely bottle green velvet and fur jacket, but it's the skirt that's wonderful. The colors are oceanic, and the blouse with this is not what you'd expect.

Blouse with tiered ruffle skirt.

No one mixes prints like Lacroix. He goes where others fear to tread, and he succeeds!

Hello Theda Bara! Very silent movie era, but luscious.

Amazing fabric manipulation; rolled edges on each strip.

One of Lacroix's signature wild styles. Very pretty.

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Friday, July 22, 2005

Anne Valérie Hash Couture Fall 2005

This is a very feminine collection with a "romantic messiness" which can be very appealing in the right hands. Pieces can easily be pulled out on their own, even from some looks that would be rather difficult to wear as a whole.

Cute bolero with an interesting collar.

These are probably the cutest leggings or narrow trousers I've ever seen! The lace is just darling, and ties at the ankle are perfect with it. I think it would have to be a rather stiff lace so as not to collapse into the look of tights.

Another pair of these cute pants, in more of an embroidered tulle. This is the best "pants under a dress" look I've seen.

Something about this dress appeals. I think it's the combination of the fabric, sleeves, dropped waistline, and interesting ruffle placement on the skirt.

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Thursday, July 21, 2005

Dior Couture Fall 2005

I've thought and thought about the Dior collection. It's so intriguing, and yet so elusive. I've decided that there's no way to do it justice or even make sense of it with only a few photos. You must see the entire collection, including all the detail shots. Here is a link to the complete Dior Couture collection. You may want to read Style's Runway Review first.

Basically, this collection begins with the fashions of Christian Dior's mother, and goes through the eras of the House of Dior, up to the present. Almost all the clothes are done in tulle, and so are transparent. They often have swatches of fabric attached here and there, or suggestions of the embellishment or fabric design picked out in beading or embroidery. What these are, are the embodiment of the toiles made up by the premiere main, with swatches of the fashion fabric, beading, trim, etc. attached for the workroom. The models wear corset style bodysuits beneath these garments. Some are made to represent the custom dressforms made for clients of the house. This collection will have an obvious appeal to the student of design, dressmaking and style. Details are laid bare that usually are quite hidden.

I see this as a transitional collection which is bridging to what John Galliano will bring us next season. There's not a whole lot here that I can imagine actually applying to our wardrobes, or even being intended to apply, but the whole feel of it brings the House of Dior strongly to the front of the "important" couture, and will leave viewers of fashion anxiously awaiting next season's couture, as well as the intervening RTW collections.

The only part that made no sense to me at all was the "Andean Peasant Couture" although it was very colorful and ethnic. It just didn't seem to fit in, and I may be reading it wrong; it may be intended to be Italian, but with those hats, I don't think so. Either way, it left me cold.

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Armani Privé Fall Couture 2005

This jacket shape and closure are similar to those shown by Valentino. Tight midriff, and open above and below. Very cute silk rosette buttons, and the peplum hem looks like an unpressed ruffle. If you don't watch out, the cleaners will press this type of hem nice and flat. He's showing a sharply square, but fairly narrow shoulder. Very sharp lapels echoing the shoulder line. A nice, lightweight straight skirt with a flippy hem.

Same basic jacket shape, but with a shaped hem. Similar buttons. Shawl collars seem to be very big this year. I have seen a lot of trouser-style pants this year, but always in a very, very drapey fabric, so there is no bulk at the hips. It just gives a little swing. I think we're all tired of the skintight pants look, so maybe we're coming out of the woods.

A gored skirt with godets this time, with the jacket lapels raised. Looks like the collar may be the satin.

A better look at this asymmetrical shawl collar with the rose. The pants are yoked and high-waisted this time, and what interesting hem bands.

Classic jacket shape with wide bound-edge lapels and collar. The self scarf attached with a brooch is charming.

Wonderful shaped neckline on a dramatic evening jacket with half-bow closure and darling sleeves.

A very wearable dinner/cocktail dress. Almost severe, but for the chiffon capelet,and very Armani!

I like the 2 piece effect with the floating skirt. This could be very cute as a day look, with a shorter skirt.

"Are there any more ruffles in the back? No? Well, I guess we're done here."

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Tuesday, July 19, 2005

Valentino Couture Fall 2005

What a fabulous suit, and notice the fur edging on the jacket. One great button is all he needs, and the lace applique is the finishing touch.

Another wonderful black and white suit with satin edging, cummerbund, ties, and look at the zipper. You can also see the back of the first suit.

Interesting fabric and embellishments. Quite a take on pony.

Just so cute. Reptile jacket, great skirt fabric, mink trim, beading, what more could you possibly want?

So similar in shape to the little tops he did for Spring, but in a gorgeous panné velvet with mink. Very yummy, and so '20's.

Here's one you just can't get without the detail shot. What wonderful fabric, (it's faille although it doesn't show well here) and great velvet applique trim. I love this unusual neckline treatment too.

I love this patterned jacket. Sequins are a little over the top for me, but they're great. This would be nice using a lot of different methods.

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Givenchy Couture Fall 2005

Riccardo Tisci's first couture collection is a real treat. He has definitely moved in a new direction for Givenchy, and yet it's not unwearable exhibitionist couture. What's with the hair, though?

Wonderfully interesting skirt, lovely classic Givenchy-shape jacket, and a great bouclé. (Horrible shoe choice.)

Wonderfully fabricated jacket.

Quite an encrusted blouse with a unique skirt.

Same blouse, courtesy of The skirt looks nicer here, too.

I like the lace treatment on this blouse. Very buttoned-up, but very feminine.

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Gaultier Couture Fall 2005

The first thing I heard about Gaultier's Fall Couture collection is that he included fur skirts...!! Well, they sounded weird, but here is the proof. Quite lovely.

The obvious Russian influence really shows in this fabulously patterned coat. The redingote shape seems to be very evident.

A very interesting shaped hemline with embellishment.

A lovely black suit if we ignore the unusual headdress.

Interesting positive/negative effect, but it seems to have nothing whatever to do with the rest of the collection.

Here we are with a fabulous evening gown that could only be couture. Idiosyncratic draping, ties, etc. The kind of thing that the uninitiated think anyone could throw together, but if they tried it, it would look like they threw it together. Here, everything is obviously carefully placed in just the right position. Lovely.

Great sleeves, and what a slinky column dress!

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