Giorgio Armani Spring 2006 RTW

A very large show with lots of nice things, and more skirt styles than I've seen all in one place for quite a while. Very nice all around.


Cutaway jacket shape, and cute topstitched band on the blouse.


Darling collar treatment.


Classic Armani pantsuit.


Darling use of bias plaid in the jacket.


There's that collar shape again, in a great jacket, and another of his unusual skirt shapes this spring.


And here's "that collar" one more time, on a tweaked trench coat this time. The asymmetric hem is quite nice.


Another intriguing jacket shape, and a cute skirt.


Cute, cute jacket with the stripes and bands.


Very unusual jacket fabrication.


Interesting jacket with inset flounces in the princess seams. This is a very dark navy, lightened here to show the details.


Knitted lace zip-front cardigan and an unusual skirt/belt combination.


Sawtooth neckline edge on a lace jacket with a layered skirt.


A beautifully draped knit dress.


A lovely combination of sheer prints.


A meltingly beautiful fabric and gown.


Beautiful beading and embellishment on this gown.

Gary Graham Spring 2006 RTW

Very interesting layers, asymmetry and exposed construction details, such as the boning.



Classic, understated handling of chiffon.



The tiniest, lightest layers imaginable.

Gary Graham photos courtesy of Olympus Fashion Week.

Chaiken Spring 2006 RTW

The first two photos are from Olympus Fashion Week.com. The last two are from Style.com.




Great black and white contrast effect with just the small sash edging.


Tassels are prominent in this collection, including hanging from sleeve cuffs.


Still showing the tiny little shrunken-effect jackets, along with a tassel belt, and great pants.


The opposite positive/negative effect.

Pucci Spring 2006 RTW

Christian Lacroix does seem the perfect choice to design Pucci's color-soaked collections. Here he uses a very spring-like palette, with lots of white and skyblue.


White cotton sheath with faceted china beading in Pucci swirls.



What an elegant coat!



A signature print, and just look at all the rows of topstitching at the sleeve and skirt hems.



'60's feel to this scarf-print jacket.



Another print in his favorite dress silhouette.



Lace pants with a severe knit top for a toned-down mod look.



A lovely style for chiffon, with great placement of the lace.



Plain sleeves with the print body of the top give a fresh look, especially when paired with the lace skirt. A very nice blend of textures and colors.



Classic print dress.

Emporio Armani 2006 Spring RTW

Emporio Armani seems like an unfocused show, and it also seems to be trying to show us ALL the different ways each idea can be translated into a style. That's fine, but a little more discrimination would have helped, I think. There are 95+ looks in this show. That's about 3 times what a really tight, well-edited show generally has. Menswear is also shown in this collection.


A very interesting waist treatment, but the bag adds nothing.


A high-relief braided passementerie as edging.


There are a series of jackets and tops with a seam right under the bust, as well as princess seaming. The skirt would be adventurous, but I could see it about 6" longer, with a semi-sheer layer underneath. I like the shape of it, though.


There are a lot of variations on these curved pleated ruffles, including tiers on skirts as well as tops. Cute jacket closure.


A real slip-style dress with this jacket in front. Behind is the same smocked yoke on a skirt this time, showing the versatility of the idea, although I'm not sure it's a success on the skirt.


A cute T-shirt style top.


Yet another variation on the Twist Top.


A darling jacket, and almost the first thing in this show that's not somewhat "sloppy" in feel.

Badgley Mischka Spring 2006 RTW

Shades of Ginger Rogers, but how romantic!


What a very pretty and rather plain tweed dress, enlivened by the small fabric rosette. Simple, but graceful.


Classic lined lace dress, with a woven leather belt.


A fairytale look with an encrusted ballerina skirt, woven satin belt, and beaded cardigan.


Very nice beaded jacket with a slightly tulip-shaped skirt.


There are a lot of these cameo-type embellishments in this collection, including use on bags and shoes.

This suit is so pretty, but the close-up shows more clearly why.


Embroidered jacquard fabric, and look at the matching belt!


A very simple, linen wrap dress with more "cameo" embellishment.


Here's a complete change of pace, but I like the shapes together.

Basso & Brooke Spring 2006 RTW

This pair shows their collection in London, and I was just enchanted by it. It's so much fun!! Yes, it's weird, and wild, and kind of wonderful in its innocent expectation that you will like them as much as they like you. Reminders of early Lacroix are rampant.

Roland Mouret Spring 2006

I'd been led to believe that Mr. Mouret's collection was dull and repetitive of last year's, and yet I was pleased to find that I have been more excited by his offering than any other I've seen so far. I hope you enjoy it too!


A little retro, but what a lovely shape, and an interesting double neckline.


Great cuffed pants, and the overblouse is tied loosely at the back to achieve the drape. It's just such a nice shape, and what a pretty collar.


This is one great dress! Actually a dress and coat I suppose, but the "coat" is so close to the body, it must be a slip dress.


Close up of the collar.


Another fabulous dress.


Same print as the overblouse above, but so stunning as a skirt, and is it appliquéd to the yoke? After studying several more garments with this fabric, I believe it's a printed chiffon applied to the skirt.


Here's my choice for "Little Black Dress" of the season!


Another wonderful tailoring/draping melange.


The plaid adds an extra dimension and emphasis to the drape.


Such a cute take on a T-shirt with a pocket.


Lotta chiffon goin' on.


This clearly shows one of his tricks of having one sleeve cut with the back and crossing over under the "center" closing of the larger front piece. Very cute.

Narciso Rodriguez Spring 2006

There's a lot of talk about the beautiful, modern seaming details on Rodriguez's clothing this season, but it is apparently almost invisible to the naked eye, or at least that's what I've heard. He doesn't seem to have a lot of fresh ideas that we can actually see, so if you have a chance to go see his clothes, go and see.


I do like this open front look.


He takes the raised collar trend to a new high.


Interesting seaming or tucks on the jacket body.

Monique L'Huillier Spring 2006

Very pretty funnel neck brocade suit with a darling polka dot ruffle blouse peeking out.


A very intriguing skirt, possibly in gazar, with a navy lace shell whose raw edges are just staystitched.


An unusual navy skirt with applied cartridge pleats. Quite a timely little blouse too.


One of many liquid satin bias gowns, all handled very well.


A chiffon gown with the fullness partially controlled by the embroidery. Also the back of the previous gown; the tattoo does not add to the effect.

Doo.Ri Spring 2006

Doo.Ri has been known for draping, and there is lovely draping here as well as some interesting tailoring.


I really like the sheer fabrics she's using around the face. They really soften the look.


Here's a close-up of the sheer collar.


Interesting button-on trenchcoat styling.


Unusual draped leather jacket, and a nice draped knit top.


Close-up of the same.


This is her main style of pant; very slim. This very much draped top is definitely unusual.


Another successful coat experiment. This one, a double ruffle collar.


A double-layer sheer top leans a little toward the shrunken look.


This time a suit with the double ruffled collar/jabot. Single layer linen or cotton for the ruffle.


A very pretty dress with lovely, soft embellishment, and a surprise at the back.


This is the style of back on quite a few of the dresses. Some have a sheer back even when the front has no sheer at all.

Bill Blass Spring 2006

Some are complaining that since Mr. Blass died, the line is not the same, and of course it isn't, but there are some lovely things just the same.


Still the raised waist look at Blass, and a lovely coat/dress combination.


The effect of a bubble skirt without the sometimes problematic hem effect.


Just a nice skirted suit look with the fuller skirt we're seeing so much of, and a cardigan style jacket that still has the interest at the neck that so many of us depend upon.


A full-skirted shirtwaist looks good again.


He does show several very nice pantsuits. The details are easiest to see in the white, but he shows metallic khaki and black as well.


A very pretty spring coat which could well be an evening coat also.


What a great look for spring. A matching dress and coat, but with a more interesting shape than the usual sheath. Lovely fabric too.


Same thing but with more of a skirt and blouse effect.


Gorgeous evening gown with beautiful embroidered lace.


Another lovely column gown, in a great print; same as the shirtwaist above.


What a pretty, interesting yoke effect. This would make a great daydress in a street length.

Carolina Herrera Spring 2006

A very pretty day dress with nice details.


Blouse with button-through bows and multiple rows of topstitching.


Close-up of the bows and topstitching.


Sundress with lots of topstitching and an interesting half-belt.


The interesting passementerie belt, and a close-up of all the topstitching detail.


Herrera's take on the ever-popular black and white print.


Very pretty, and imaginative sheer layers.


An unusual hostess style dress with button-through bows and lots of topstitching.


Close-up of the details.


Such lovely fabric; almost encrusted looking.


The tiniest bolero imaginable.


What an intriguing blouse! The skirt is one of her favorite shapes this season.

Brian Reyes Spring 2006

Another designer who's new to me, Brian Reyes shows a very nice collection.


An intriguing mix of short over long with sheer fabrics does draw one's attention. The color, or lack thereof, makes the jumble of details restful to the eye.


A great graphic print for a summer skirt.


Cute lace suit.


One of his favorite fabrics appears to be natural silk, here in an interesting blouse. Deeply cuffed pants are showing up a lot this spring.



Same fabric, very different style, but still very nice.


He seems enamored of frills at the bust, and this is cute. He has some that look like wash on the line.



Here are the weird frill thingies. I can't imagine how these passed the initial idea stage, but they appear several times.


Very cute petalled skirt.



A very strategically placed necklace, and there are those extraordinarily deep cuffs again.

Oscar de la Renta Spring 2006

De la Renta never disappoints! What a lovely collection, and there is truly something for everyone. Notice please, the darling accessories, including gloves all around, and minaudière purses, although large totes are shown for casual looks. Even though he shows many sleeveless looks, his high armholes make them wearable for all ages, even though in many cases, the shoulders are quite bare. He also has many opportunities to cover up in a manner that pleases.


Just another example of Oscar chic. Simple, yet sophisticated.


Here's a close up of the marvelous necklace that really makes this outfit.


Embroidered casual skirts seem to be big this year, and this one is lent a Caribbean flavor by the ruffled blouse.


The safari look continues this year.


Beautifully fitted dress with a rolled edge at the bodice/skirt seam and the hem. Funky beading, yet de la Renta always has that level of elegance.


Close up of the beading.


Raw silk trousers and a great cardigan.


Wonderful seaming on this dress, and all edges, including the pocket edges, appear to be finished with a serging technique, with a similar decorative stitch above the hem.


Gorgeous suit, and what appears to be quite a lot of trim toward the top is actually the patterned fabric. I believe there is some beading or trim at the hems, or possibly a border print. We're definitely moving "on beyond" fringe.


A close up of this gorgeous fabric, with the small stitching/braid trim at the collar edge.


An example of a "constructed fabric." The close-up below shows the details.

Lots of work here just to get the fabric itself ready to make the dress.


Very elegant, and it's so nice to see the bows coming down to the natural waist level.


Still the lovely embellished jackets for a casual chic look.


One of a group of ladylike suits; all very nice, as usual.


Just about the same, but a longer coat for a little more swing. I'm beginning to like his low-neck blouses with the ruffle and tie. In a soft silk, they add quite a lot of style without adding too much volume.


A darling nod to quilting, with the blanket-stitched panels at the hem, and Oscar's "signature" skirt shape.


There's always something nice about his cardigan with a ballgown look that just doesn't work as well for some other designers.


What a fantastic look! Takes us back to the beginning necklace, only this time the embellishment is on the jacket. It looks like a poodle cloth/nubby bouclé for the base fabric.

Sari Gueron

A nice, simple collection. Apparently the daywear is new, as, like many young designers attempting to break through, she previously focused on evening looks. This seems to be the easiest way to get noticed, and thus get a chance to present a complete collection.

The attached scarf lapel has a braided effect because of the spaced ties. It's very pretty with the dotted top and the gaucho pants.

The tuck across the jacket is a nice detail against the rounded hem, as is the crochet appliqué on the top.

A very unusual embellishment, but not nearly so cute as the long dress with similar gathered rounds.

Another dotted fabric in a tiered-skirt dress.

Such a graceful dress. Wonderful proportions, and more of the crochet appliqué touches.

Here's the long version, and it's much nicer. This wouldn't work in a bright color, but the muted fabric allows the otherwise garish embellishment to become demure.

Costello Tagliapietra

Known for jersey dresses, they've branched out with some nice separates and wovens too. Apparently the backs of the dresses are spectacular, according to Style.com but of course, we can't see them. I do agree that their very drapey dresses do not evoke the Grecian Goddess image, but rather Katherine Hepburn in 1930's movies; a modern woman who's not afraid of personal beauty.

There is something of a sameness to their looks, but they're all very graceful and sophisticated looking, while appearing easy to wear, and I predict they will be copied with alacrity.


Great color combination of charcoal and taupe.

A more structured top with a flattering collar and nice sleeves.

A little young, but still a nice look. A few pieces of jewelry would change the emphasis entirely.

This has such pretty proportions, but a camisole would be a must.

A much simpler style than the previous look, but a very nice day look, and probably more wearable.

Finally a pair of pants. There are 2 in the collection, and they apparently have slot seams. I like the trim leg shape.

Tuleh Spring 2006

Some nice fabrics and a very few interesting things are about all I found in the Tuleh show.

A very pretty trench coat in silver and white crocodile.

A nice juxtaposition of prints and a sheer. With narrower sleeves, this could be quite a wearable combination for a lot of occasions.

I thought this was an interesting use of navy tulle over a chartreuse.

I do like Spring Coats, and this abstract fabric, reminiscent of birch bark, is very pretty, especially with the fashionable asymmetrical closure. White coats are notoriously difficult to keep pristine-looking, but after all, spring coats are not meant for practicality.

Luca Luca Spring 2006

I usually like Luca Luca's Spring things, and this year is no different. He has nice, cool colors, and some very cute details.

A nice linen top with a jacket, and even the Bermuda shorts aren't too bad. They're always such a good idea for a silhouette, but when it comes to figure-flattery, it's usually a whole different story.

This is just a beautiful dress, and a very nice use of chiffon (or tulle?) with the pleats falling into the skirt. He reprises this idea a little later.

I love a Spring Coat, and this one's very cute, with the embroidered strawberries, but why not extend the scallops to the hem? It looks very awkward just stopping in the middle of nowhere. I suppose that's where the waist seam is, but there's no reason they couldn't have had scallops on the skirt front too. Even an applied placket would have been better than this.

The epitome of summer chic: Black & White in a casual wide leg pant outfit.

Such a cute summer skirt, with piped gores and embroidery/applique. This would be just as cute on a 5-year -0ld, and there aren't many things that translate that well between generations.

I love the pleats in the bodice that continue into the skirt, although the ruching and ruffling at the hem is perhaps overkill.

I like the pleated hem on the top, and the shorts with the knit top.

This is just such a nice way to use a little sheer fabric in a day look. It looks very fresh and cool, too.

What beautiful handling of stripes so as to enhance the design. Very pretty.

Alexandre Herchcovitch Spring 2006

Yes, the Spring New York Fashion Week is underway! I can't say I'm ready, as I'm just easing into Fall clothing, but onward and upward.

Herchcovitch didn't seem to have much that was immediately wearable, but there are a few things that intrigue. He appears to have an obsession with rounded oval shapes, and quite a few of his things have a pair right below center on a scooped neckline. It's not the most flattering thing I've seen... He also uses a lot of wide belts, cinched quite high, for an Empire line.

I love the Spring feeling that his bright colored touches on a very muted floral create. The blue peeking out at the pant hems is a thin, perforated suede, which matches the shoes. (Doesn't she look pleased?)

This is an unusual 2-layer top, attached at the openwork top. You can see it better in the detail shot below.

Roberta di Camerino F/W 2006

I want to cover several Italian designers I found through Donna Moderna. These photos courtesy of Donna Moderna.




What interesting pockets on a pretty winter jacket.

I like this very drapey cape with one sleeve. I've seen similar designs, but usually much shorter versions. This looks fairly wearable.

Kind of an interesting drape on this cowl neck top, although I think sleeves would actually improve it.

I like the collar on this jacket, and it looks so much better buttoned correctly than the long coat they show in the same style and fabric, which they buttoned as a single-breasted coat, and just left the extra buttons and buttonholes undone. It was very odd looking, and I can't imagine why they thought it wasn't.

Luisa Beccaria Fall/Winter 2006

Italian designer, Luisa Beccaria is new to me, although she's been around a long time, and has a very nice collection. You can see the complete collection at Donna Moderna, and all Beccaria photos courtesy of Donna Moderna.

Cute suit with the long, bell sleeves we see so much of. There's almost a Tyrolean feel to this suit with the white lace embellishment and the gray wool fabric.
Very pretty ruffly sweater and blouse. There's a filet crochet look to the sweaterknit pattern on this and several sweaters in the collection.
These interesting sleeves with long cuffs on the blouse look like they're trimmed with the suit fabric, and the sheer blouse sleeves between the cuffs and the 3/4 suit sleeves add a lot of texture. Lots of designers seem to be edging away from fringe for trim, toward small ruffles.
Close up of ruffle trimmed suit. Great brocade fabric. Grayed blues are a favorite in the collection.
Very similar fabric, but a completely different style with a much easier fit to the jacket, and a silver quilted lining.
Fabulous red coat with velvet collar. Brought to my attention by Mardel; it's a gorgeous thing, and eminently wearable.
Classic velvet party dress, but with darling satin bow neckline addition.
This silhouette is straight from the 80's. I'm not sure I want to go back, but for those that haven't been there before...
I love the way this bow is tied. It has that little extra something.

Resort! 2005

There are a few interesting things in the Resort Collections.

Donna Karan has a great neckline on this dress.


Great hat by Lanvin! The dress is quite wonderful, too.

Lanvin again. Interesting bell sleeves in a short version, and lovely, casual-chic drawstring pants.

Michael Kors has found a great print, and what a nice combination with the beaded cardigan. Notice please, the cute bag with stick handles.

Oscar de la Renta linen dress with wonderful trim. Quite a few of his other dresses have very full skirts with crinolines; often showing at the hem.


Very unusual, but intriguing dress from Prada.

Rochas dress looks comfortable as an old shoe, possibly because it's too long, but look at the gorgeous waterlily print! Perfect for resort wear.



Great use of blanket stitch edging from Rochas, and the inverted scallop shape is very fresh.

What a feminine Safari Suit from Valentino. The tiny ruffle on the edge of the jacket front and collar looks fresh, yet effortless. Almost throw-away style.


Zac Posen's color blocking is unusual in both shape and the fact that it's not 2 solid colors.


Absolutely adorable dress from Badgley Mischka. Fabric and embellishments really compliment the style. Very cute tie belt too.




Cute take on a sailor dress accomplished with appliqué by Behnaz Sarafpour.